Sergio Cuadra is the new winemaker at Fall Creek Vineyards who started last August, 2013. Sergio came to Texas from Chile and owners Ed and Susan Auler are very excited to have him on board. Sergio was happy to answer our questions about himself and winemaking.
What did you do before becoming a winemaker (if anything)?
Back in 1994 after finishing my agronomy engineering studies, I went right to work for big guys like Viña San Pedro and Viña Concha y Toro (2nd and 1st largest Chilean wineries respectively) where I spent the next decade and a bit.
What is the toughest challenge about being a winemaker in Texas?
From the technical point of view, I think we have to be open and alert to the options that every year/vintage brings due to the elusive weather, so we can be prepared to adjust accordingly. On the other hand, the toughest challenge will be to break through the Texas boundaries and offer our wines to the other 291.1 million Americans.
Is winemaking an art or a science or both?
The minute you start thinking about making wine, you start making calculations, like the acreage, fruit chemistry, the size of your tanks, the number of barrels, budget, and a long list of etceteras. So science plays an important role at all levels. Moreover, knowing what is really going on from the plant to the bottle and understanding all major stages has been possible and becomes clearer with the use of science.
However, along the way there is a significant amount of decisions that are somehow subjective, not related to any measurement or index but to the human mind. Ultimately, the final blending session (even making monovarietals you blend different components) is by definition dependent on the winemaker’s palate only. Yes, winemaking is an art, and there is a lot of artistic expression involved. This is one of the reasons this activity is so interesting and exciting.
What is your favorite food and wine pairing?
There are so many wines and so many foods and so many moods that it would be unfair to choose one favorite, but if I have to, then oysters and Sauvignon Blanc are meant for each other!
If you didn’t make wine, what would you do?
Make beer, probably.
What first attracted you to winemaking and how long have you been doing it?
Up to a point I understood wine as a two color alcoholic beverage that sometimes came blended as pink or with the addition of bubbles. I was overwhelmed by the world of different versions and varieties that can be produced from wine. A teacher once taught me that there were over 5,000 vine varieties, so even after some 20 years of winemaking experience, I’m still working on the tip of the iceberg.
What is the most common question you are asked as a winemaker?
People want to know the winemaking procedures of a particular wine, I guess.
After a long day in the winery or vineyard, what do you do?
Spend the rest of the day with family.
What’s the greatest part about being a winemaker?
I like the combination of different fields where I can perform my abilities, like the vineyard where it’s important to get your shoes dirty more often than not, then the winery operations and the winemaking itself, and finally the markets where you have to explain to various people what you did to get the grapes in the bottle. I really enjoy how dynamic and fun it is.
What is your winemaking philosophy, that is, what are you trying to achieve with your wines?
I like to hear that the wines I make are great, unique and sold out! This basically means that I keep people’s preferences in mind at all times. I try to make wines with personality letting the vines express themselves as much as possible in order to get their terroir stamp on the wine profile, and I love to see more wine needed each year due to good sales.
Anything else you would like to add?
I think Texas wines are somehow living in foundational times. In a way, we can see its first or second generation as a good comparison to several other wine regions. So, there are some definitions being forged as we speak, and I like the way it’s been developing, with family-oriented kinds of wineries and the lack, for now, of big wine corporations. I think that these are values that we should take advantage of for the future, and I’m glad to be part of these times.
Bella Vista Ranch is located in Wimberley and is owned by Jack and Pat Dougherty. At the same location they also own First Texas Olive Oil Co.
It had been a few years since we were last at Bella Vista Ranch so it was definitely time for a return visit. I saw they provide a 1 1/2 hour tour of the olive orchard, olive mill, and winery on weekends, but I could never get the timing correct to visit at the right time. So at my first opportunity, I ended up visiting on a very cool wintery day and was ready for a nice tasting of wines and olive oils.
As I entered the warm tasting room, I was greeted by Greg who I informed I would like to do a wine tasting. We were ready to start when Jack Dougherty popped in to say something to Greg. Fortunately I was able to go on a little walk with Jack to the vineyard for a photo op and hear a little about Bella Vista Ranch.
They started an olive grove and a small vineyard in 1998. The vineyard today grows Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. In 2001, Jack and Pat Dougherty harvested their first crop of olives. Today there are 1,200 producing olive trees. He had been making wine on his own but when the liquor laws for the county changed in 2004, Bella Vista Ranch became a production winery. Today besides the winery, there is the olive orchard, vineyard, frantoio (olive press), and many fruit and vegetables.
Jack Dougherty
Jack wanted the photo near the vineyard and I made the comment that it was too bad it wasn’t summer with nice green growth, but Jack said he actually preferred the vineyard at this time of year. He also explained how they do three prunings a year.
I thanked Jack for his time and went back into the tasting room to start my wine tasting. I learned then that Jack is also known as “The Olive Guy.” Part of the reason is they were the first olive oil producer outside of California and of course the first in Texas, hence the name First Texas Olive Oil Co.
Wine tastings are done while standing at the small tasting bar. The wines labeled with Bella Vista Cellars are poured from the uncorked bottles. There are two tasting fees. The lower fee is for four wines and the higher fee is for two more wines which are for reserve wines.
Dos Cabs (2010 Cabernet Sauvignon and estate 2012 Cabernet Franc)
2012 Estate Cabernet Franc
Raspberry Wine
All grapes used are from Texas and the raspberries used in the Raspberry Wine come from Washington. If they cannot use 100% Texas grapes, they use California grapes. Jack Dougherty, Greg, and Ross are the winemakers. They produce about 3,500 cases of wine a year. When oak is needed for a wine, they use French oak barrels.
While doing the wine tasting, I remember doing a tasting of olive oils on our last visit, so I was pleased to learn how to correctly taste olive oil in addition to the difference between fresh olive oil and the kind you find in supermarkets. Besides their fresh olive oil offered, they also offer Californian and Italian olive oils blended to their specifications.
Olive oil
The gift shop also has natural castile soap made from different oils including olive oil, olives, vinegars, jams and sauces, and clothing. The winery has harvest events every year.
Take a trip to Bella Vista Ranch and learn about how olive oil is really made and enjoy the Texas wines.
We received an invitation by William Chris Vineyards to attend a concert they were having starring Texas artist Larry Joe Taylor. We gladly accepted and started planning a road trip to Wine Road 290 and the area for the weekend.
On the way to our planned first stop, we made a quick change when we realized it had been a little while since we had visited Texas Hills Vineyard so we made a slight detour. Unfortunately we arrived to the winery about one minute after a group of cars. By the time we got into the tasting room, the entire half-circle tasting bar was full while co-owner Gary Gilstrap was making pasta for Wine Road 290′s Vino & Pasta event. Since we had an appointment we needed to make, we unfortunately had to leave. Next time!
Next was a visit to Hye Market and Hye End Tasting Room. The store has grown quite a bit from the first time we visited and wine, beer, and spirit tastings are done every Saturday. From advertising for the Saturday, we learned Pontotoc Vineyard would be giving tastings. We were looking forward to seeing owner Carl Money again and taste his new wines.
We talked to Chef Bruce who is now at Hye Market with sandwiches and other food available. Carl Money soon came and after setting up his tasting area, we tried all three wines he brought: Estate Tempranillo 2012, Smoothing Iron Mountain 2012, and San Fernando Academy 2012. When we left, we ended up buying all three including an Estate Tempranillo 2011.
In the meantime, Mark Watson, owner of Compass Rose Cellars stopped in at Hye Market to say hello to everybody and told us about the winery he’s currently building a mile up the road from Hye. Compass Rose’s winery production is currently located in Mason and this will be a second location for the moment. He offered to drive us up to the location and give us a tour. So we hopped into his truck and made the short ride to the site. He explained where various things would be located including the tasting room at the top of the hill on the property. The foundation should be poured soon and he expects the building to be complete in less than two months. It will definitely be a great place to sit and enjoy a wine with the silence and beautiful view of the area.
Mark Watson
Our next stop was going to be Pedernales Cellars where we were to have lunch with President Fredrik Osterberg, so we picked up three sandwiches from Hye Market to go. Fredrik was waiting outside the winery for us when we arrived and since there had been some light rain on and off, he suggested we eat lunch in his office. We all enjoyed the sandwiches while Fredrik talked about recent happenings such as Texas Fine Wine and new wines they had released including a five blend white wine called Cinco and a George Bush 25th Anniversary Reserve 2012 Tempranillo. He also told us of plans they have with the winery’s buildings which sound great, but I don’t want to spoil any announcements they will be making. When we are back in the area Memorial Day weekend, the plans should be complete and hopefully we will have the opportunity to enjoy them. We thanked Fredrik for his time and loaded up the car with more wine we purchased. Tip: Bring an empty wine case box on your trips to easily carry any wines you buy.
4.0 Cellars was next and I was hoping to taste some of Brennan Vineyards new wines. Winemaker Todd Webster told me Pat Brennan would be delivering some of the new wines to 4.0 Cellars that afternoon. Unfortunately, we were running a little late and we missed seeing Pat at the winery, but we heard he did bring the wines. We did a regular tasting of 4.0 Cellar’s wines from McPherson Cellars, Lost Oak Winery, and Brennan Vineyards, and then had the opportunity to try the new wines from Brennan Vineyards. I was looking forward to trying the dry Rosé Malbec because Gloria doesn’t usually care for Rosés but loves Malbec. Sure enough, she has now found a Rosé she likes. The 4.0 Cellars Nero d’Avola was also excellent and will only get better in the bottle. The wines weren’t in the system yet for buying so we will have to stop again next time we’re in the area and hopefully they won’t be sold out of them.
Also at 4.0 Cellars was the adorable Cathy Locke of Cathy’s Sweets and we came home with some of her chocolates. She told us of some exciting news for her and we wish her the best of luck.
Cathy Locke
Heading back to Hye, we stopped in at Hilmy Cellars to try any new wines and see one of our favorite tasting guides, Vinny Lupo. Last year when we bought a bottle of each wine, they had recently been bottled. After some time in the bottle now, the wines are really tasting great. We also had the pleasure of seeing owner Erik Hilmy again.
Last year we visited Hye Meadow Winery when it was still being built. I have been there since it was finished but Gloria had not, so we had to stop. Fortunately owner Mike Batek and winemaker Jeff Ivy were there and Jeff led us through a tasting of their newest wines. Gloria was impressed with the finished winery and it is always nice to see how something under construction turns out. As was true with every winery we visited, at least one bottle was added to our wine case box.
Mike Batek and Jeff Ivy
It was now time for the concert at William Chris Vineyards so we made the short trip across the street. After buying a bottle of wine, the Blanc du Bois, to enjoy during the concert, we visited the two food trucks present. We both chose the barbecue food truck and found a spot at a table to eat and listen to the concert. Another couple joined our table and we struck up a nice conversation with them. Since they were fairly new to the Texas wine scene, we were happy to answer any questions they had. They had not tried the Blanc du Bois so we shared some with them and they shared the newest 2012 Hunter with us.
Larry Joe Taylor
The sun was setting and the crowd was settling in with anticipation for Larry Joe Taylor to take the stage. The concert started and from the sound of the applause after each song, the crowd was really enjoying the concert and their time at William Chris Vineyards. During the concert we had the opportunity to speak with co-owner Bill Blackmon. Check out Larry Joe Taylor if you get the chance to see him in concert, and thank you to William Chris Vineyards for the invitation.
Brock Estes, owner of Fly Gap Winery, was having a release party of his newest Dank wine called “Lights Out” at Sandstone Cellars in Mason. We decided to catch the end of the party and headed to Mason. After checking into the nice Bickenbach Guest Haus, we went to the Sandstone Cellars Wine Bar where the release party was being held. We caught up with Brock Estes and his wife Melissa, and our glasses were soon filled with his new wine. He then led us next door where he had a nice setup with a black light and the wine bottles sitting above so the wine bottle label would be illuminated by the black light. It was definitely a very nice showing for Fly Gap Winery’s new Dank wine.
We then ran into Dan McLaughlin from Robert Clay Vineyards. We had planned on helping them prune Sunday morning but it was uncertain if the weather would cooperate. He introduced us to Jess, the writer from Chick in a Van, who has been helping the McLaughlins recently. She has been traveling around the country and staying in her van, so she showed us the van’s conversion which was pretty nice. We arranged to meet at the vineyard at 9 a.m. in the morning to do the pruning.
Sunday came and it was cold! A couple of texts later and we would still meet them at the vineyard at 9 a.m. but we would just take a tour. We arrived at Robert Clay Vineyards and Dan and Jeanie McLaughlin along with Jess were there. We walked through the rows of vines with Dan explaining all the work they had done from the beginning of working the vineyard and then the previous day when they pruned the Chardonnay.
Dan & Jeanie McLaughlin
There are 15 acres of vineyard with Chardonnay, Merlot, Touriga Nacional, and an experimental vineyard where different varieties are tried. The vineyard is laid out with the Chardonnay at the top of a hill and going down the hill is the Merlot and Touriga Nacional. As we reached the bottom of the hill, it was very obvious it was colder and Dan said there is a 10 degree difference between the top of the hill and bottom of the hill. The hill isn’t that high so it was interesting how much of a difference there could be. We then saw an example of what the vineyard looked like when the McLaughlins started working it, and it is day and night between what they currently have. They still plan on getting to the last section of vineyard which is Merlot and clearing that out.
Unmanaged vineyard section
I had been wanting to see the vineyard since the first time I met Dan McLaughlin. They have definitely done a lot of hard work in the vineyard and it is showing, along with the experience Dan has accumulated along the way. We thanked Dan and Jeanie for their time, said our goodbyes, and it was time for the long trek back home which ended another wine fun filled weekend.
The 2nd Annual Texas Hill Country Wine and Brew Festival in Kerrville takes place on Saturday, May 24th. It promises to be bigger and better than last year.
Over ten Texas wineries are scheduled to be present pouring their wines in addition to a couple breweries with multiple food and retail vendors. In addition to the food and beverages, there will be musical acts: Fred Andrews & Honeybrowne, Finding Friday, and Dustin Pittsley Band plus trick roper Kevin Fitzpatrick.
This year there will be a floating golf green in the middle of Lake Comanche Trace where you can buy chances to chip on the green and wine prizes. A new kid’s area will be available complete with bounce houses, huge slides, and other fun activities. Children ages 12 and under will be admitted free!
The festival is brought to you by Centennial Bank and proceeds from the Texas Hill Country Wine and Brew Festival will be donated to Schreiner University located in Kerrville, Texas.
On May 24th, Pedernales Cellars had the grand opening of their new Reserve Tasting Room and we had the pleasure of attending as invited guests. The Reserve Tasting Room is in a remodeled room of the attached house and is available by appointment only. They will take walk-ins if there is space available.
Reserve Tasting Room
The Reserve Tasting Room is available on Saturdays and Sundays, and includes a tasting of Pedernales Cellars wines which were previously available to wine club members only such as library wines, estate blends, and older vintages. There is a $25 tasting fee but the fee will be waived with a case purchase. The tasting is a personal one on one experience with an experienced sommelier or wine professional, and Pedernales Cellars is proud they have two sommeliers on staff.
Julie Kuhlken and Fredrik Osterberg
We were greeted at our appointment time by Pedernales Cellars co-owners Julie Kuhlken and Fredrik Osterberg who guided us to the Reserve Tasting Room. The room is available for up to six people at one time and is decorated with photographs from the estate vineyard and also the 2013 Lyon International Wine Competition diploma where Pedernales Cellars won a Grand Gold for their 2012 Viognier Reserve.
We were introduced to Bill Burns and Cecilia Barretto who would be leading our tasting. We noticed that the tastings are done in Riedel glasses to provide the best possible tasting. Oh, and you get to keep the Riedel glass too!
Bill Burns and Cecilia Barretto
Of the six wines tasted, only one was available in the main tasting room. The tastings were divided up into two flights: Tempranillo and blends. These are the wines which were available during our tasting:
Tempranillo Reserve 2012 from vineyards in the Hill Country and High Plains. Available in both tasting rooms.
George Bush Reserve Tempranillo 2012. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the wine benefits the George H. W. Bush Presidential Library Foundation.
Block Two 2011. Estate blend from second block of the Kuhlken Vineyards where 65% Tempranillo is combined with 35% Touriga Nacional. We were also shown the layout of the vineyard with the different blocks.
Kuhlken Vineyards Reserve 2011. From blocks Zero, One, and Two which features Tempranillo and Merlot.
Family Reserve 2011. Blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, and Touriga Nacional.
Family Reserve 2009. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Tempranillo.
Our 50 minute appointment time quickly passed as we had thoroughly enjoyed tasting wines which are not usually available.
2013 Lyon International Wine Competition diploma
More wineries are going to an appointment only format for their tastings and the Reserve Tasting Room at Pedernales Cellars is another step into that direction. For those people who do not want to fight the crowds to find a spot at a tasting bar, the Reserve Tasting Room allows you to enjoy a tasting in a relaxed and quiet atmosphere, not to mention being able to taste and buy special Pedernales Cellars wines.
Fat Ass Ranch & Winery is located in Fredericksburg and is owned by Gail and Jennie McCulloch. The winery opened on May 17th and is located on Highway 290, so it is very easy to find.
Fat Ass Ranch & Winery flew under the radar as to a new winery opening in Fredericksburg until I was asked by a friend about a week before them opening if I knew who they were. It was a little confusing as they said it looked like it might be a distillery since an old moonshine still was in front the winery. Information was soon obtained and we planned on visiting the winery during our Memorial Day weekend trip with friends to Fredericksburg.
Since the winery was new and there had not been much information about them, not even a website or Facebook page, I was expecting to find a winery in progress. I was pleasantly surprised to find a polished winery which was ready for business and ready to welcome customers.
When you first arrive at the winery, you pick up immediately on the theme of the winery which is you are in Texas. The outside has a large seating area complete with the back of a bus with cushions, a contraption which looks like the moonshine still mentioned but has the end result of wine, tractor, men’s and women’s restrooms built from silos, and more. The outside décor continued inside the winery and you could tell the person responsible for it had a lot of fun with the theme and was very imaginative. We learned the person was co-owner Jennie McCulloch who is the owner of the store “Shoulda Been a Cowboy” located on Main Street in Fredericksburg. She made most of the themed items along with the help of friends.
Angie greeted us and led us through our tasting. There is a tasting fee for four wines and you stand at the large tasting bar to do a tasting. The wines are poured using a measured pourer and the tasting fee includes keeping your tasting glass.
These are the wines which are currently available:
Dry White (Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay)
Dry Red (Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc)
Sweet White (Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay with a little sugar added)
Sweet Red (Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc)
As you can tell, the dry and sweet wines are the same blends made in two different styles. All wines use 100% Texas grapes as they are made by Texas Custom Wine Works, and of course are very good. Soon to be offered are a Peach wine and Watermelon wine. The winery also plans on making wines for different holidays throughout the year. All wines are currently priced the same.
The winery already has a wine club and plans on offering live music with food trucks. The gift shop is very large at the winery and we were told Jennie’s store in town has similar gifts. What I found surprising were the number of items already available with the Fat Ass Ranch & Winery logo and name on them. You could tell detailed planning had already gone into the winery.
Angie told us a vineyard will be planted on the side of the winery. That should look great along with the outdoor area already present.
Naming your winery Fat Ass Ranch & Winery shows they are planning on having fun at the winery and it will be interesting to watch their progression in the upcoming years.
Kuhlman Cellars is a winery which will be opening later this year on Highway 290 in Stonewall, Texas. The winery is owned by Chris and Jennifer Cobb, and the winemaker is Bénédicte Rhyne.
I first met Chris and Jennifer Cobb at last year’s Newsom Grape Day where they told me about their plans on building a winery along with a vineyard. At the time they expected it might be open in 2015. I saw Chris again at this year’s Newsom Grape Day and they are now expecting an opening in 2014. He told me about their concept for the winery and vineyard, and it was very intriguing with what they will be doing.
Chris invited us to come by for a preview of their wines the next time we were in Fredericksburg. Fortunately, it wasn’t too soon after the discussion that we arranged for a time to visit Memorial Day weekend.
Since Kuhlman Cellars is still being built, they are using a co-op space at Pedernales Cellars. We arrived at Pedernales Cellars and were guided to the co-op space in the upstairs of the winery’s production area. We met the Cobbs there and it was a nice surprise that Bénédicte Rhyne was also present.
A table with tablecloth was set up for six people and we each had our own place setting with a personalized tasting menu so we knew where to sit. Each place setting had five wine glasses and one water glass. Also available were food platters for pairing with the wines.
Chris explained to the group about the upcoming winery and what their current plans are for tastings. Kuhlman Cellars is named after the nearby Kuhlman Creek and overlooks Lyndon B. Johnson State Park. The winery will be on a lot of 15.5 acres and have a vineyard of 7 acres. They will use rainwater and recycled water for irrigation of the vineyard. If construction goes as planned, they are hoping for an opening the first part of August.
The winery will be available for tastings by appointment only for a $20 tasting fee. The tastings would be just like our table was set up for an intimate one on one experience. A table for two would be available if the appointment was only for two people. They do not want to have a crowd fighting for a wine, but would prefer to share a personal experience with the customers. Instead of providing tastings of their wine with one wine glass like most wineries do, Kuhlman Cellars will provide a different wine glass for each wine so there is no possible mixing of the wines.
Kuhlman Cellars plans on producing five wines a year with one white, one rosé, and three reds. They believe in using Mediterranean, Italian, and French variety grapes. Their philosophy on wines to be provided is not necessarily being the best Texas wine, but the best wine they can provide. Their other belief is that blends are the best which will be able to handle the different vintages year to year. At the moment, there are no plans for a sweet or sparkling wine. They will use different labels on the bottles based on the variety and blend.
Chris Cobb
It was time to start tasting the wines and Chris started pouring. They do not like measured pourers but plan on using aerator pourers to make it easier to pour the wine. We tasted a total of five bottled wines and the first four were all Texas. These are the wines we tasted:
Sauvignon Blanc 2013. 88% Sauvignon Blanc from Mesa Vineyards, Fort Stockton and 12% Sémillon from the High Plains. No oak was used.
Roussanne 2012. 90% Roussanne from Oswald Vineyard in the High Plains and 10% Chenin Blanc from Mesa Vineyards. No oak was used.
Calcaria 2013. 77% Chenin Blanc from Mesa Vineyards, 13% Sémillon from the Pheasant Ridge vineyard, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc from Mesa Vineyards. Calcaria is a Latin word for calcium. This is a blend they want to bring out every year.
Texas Red Blend 2012. 47% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Carignan, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Grenache.
Alluvé 2012. 59% Carignan, 22% Petite Sirah, and 19% Grenache. The grapes came from Sonoma County. Chris said that Alluvé is a type of erosion which happens.
Even though the wines were bottled just a couple weeks prior, they were tasting very good. We were then treated to two barrel tastings:
Barranca. California. This is a blend from Alexander Valley and was used to compare against the Alluvé.
Kankar. California. 40% Malbec, 40% Petite Sirah from Dry Creek Valley, and 20% Sangiovese from the Sierra Foothills.
During the tasting, Chris, Jennifer, and Bénédicte were very interested in the group’s opinions as to what food paired best with each wine. They also were open to receive any suggestions we had on anything. It was easy to see they obviously want to provide the best possible special experience to their customers.
Bénédicte Rhyne, Chris and Jennifer Cobb
Besides being fun and enjoyable, the tasting had been a great preview for what to expect when Kuhlman Cellars opens, and I know we cannot wait to try it again inside the new winery. Keep an eye on their website and Facebook page to follow their progress on opening.
My first taste of Barking Rocks winery this evening was about as Texan as you can get. The television alarm was blearing Severe Thunderstorm Warning, and the rain and winds were blowing in along with the breathtaking crackles of cloud to ground lightening. Then came the marble sized springtime hailstones, oh so pretty, but oh so damaging to our gorgeous grape vines in the Lone Star State.
For those of us familiar with the Tannat varietal, our minds immediately race to the foothills of the Pyrenees (Mountains in southwest France) and our gums naturally retract to the back of our head in preparation of the tannic bombardment to ensue. Well, fast forward to modern times and travel across the pond to the state of Texas. Here, a few dedicated winemakers have embarked on a mission to tame the noble armor skinned grape and construct palate friendly, inviting Texas Tannat wine. This evening I had the pleasure of savoring such a jewel.
As I pulled the cork, I immediately detected the aroma of a cedar chest. After some vigorous swirling, I placed my sniffer into the glass and my suspicion was confirmed with the earthy undertones of cedar and oak with the overtones of dark fruits. My first few sips were tight and the acidity was almost nil, but I knew she needed some time in the glass before I could really see what Lawrence (Tiberia) had constructed for us with this Tannat.
After letting it breathe, I went back to the glass and swirled away. The wine had opened up and the grained woody tones were even warmer with blackberries and soft spices dancing on my palate. There is a grilled meat aspect on the back end of this wine that reminds me of the old world. I suspect that the 18 months in Missourian White Oak brings the toasted meat aspect into this wine. The acidity came to life as well which I fully anticipated being Reddy fruit from the Texas High Plains.
My conclusive personal thoughts of is wine are… The nose offers warm wood with black fruit dominating the senses. The palate is blackberries with soft spices and grilled meat on the back end. If you can picture a freshly sanded piece of cowhide leather with an über smooth texture, that is what the mouth feel is for me. Supple and silky. I detect medium acidity and medium/delayed round tannins on the front of the palate. This wine is what a modern Texas Tannat should be, friendly, juicy, silky and smooth enough to be enjoyed on its own, but big enough to enjoy with grilled pork chops and spicy BBQ.
Great job Lawrence Tiberia (Barking Rocks Winery) for producing such a gorgeous Tannat and to the Reddy family for growing such wonderful fruit.
Allan Fetty is the co-owner and winemaker at Westcave Cellars. Along with his wife Margaret, they also have a beautiful vineyard near the winery. Allan took the time to answer our questions about himself and winemaking.
What did you do before becoming a winemaker (if anything)?
I worked in the semiconductor industry, initially as an equipment engineer, and then as a package development engineer. After completing the Executive MBA at UT in Austin, I moved into operations management, which ultimately led to working in high-tech start-up companies in Austin.
What is the toughest challenge about being a winemaker in Texas?
The toughest challenge is getting good quality grapes from other Texas vineyards, as well as our vineyard. Winemakers in other regions don’t deal with the year to year variations in Texas, especially freezes and frost. Many times we receive grapes with an expectation in mind for the wine and have to totally change our plan because the grapes are so different.
Is winemaking an art or a science or both?
Definitely both. On the science side, winemaking is well known and published, so the wine technical quality should be consistent. The art side is mainly stylistic with the winemaker determining the overall style, flavor profile, and aromas. That’s where the opportunities for differentiation really take hold.
What is your favorite food and wine pairing?
New York strip and a BIG, bold wine, typically a Cab or a Cab/Merlot blend. I also like a big round White with seafood or a chicken pasta. Lighter, fruity whites are best with snacks.
If you didn’t make wine, what would you do?
I would probably still be at a start-up company in Austin. This is way more fun and challenging though and I am saying it is my last start-up company.
What first attracted you to winemaking and how long have you been doing it?
I have been making wine for about 10 years, but been growing grapes for 20 years. Selling grapes to other Hill Country wineries allowed me to meet the growers and owners and inspired me into the process of making my own wine. Winemaking is as challenging as making semiconductors. You never know all you need to know or want to know. The information may be out there but you have to find it, interpret it, and then use that information to benefit your style. These are all nice challenges.
What is the most common question you are asked as a winemaker?
How did you get started in this business? Most people don’t realize that making wine is a farming business. So people always ask about the farming since we have a vineyard. Since growing up in a farming community, growing grapes was a natural fit for a second career in farming. A love of good wine was a natural fit for starting a winery which is the second most asked question.
After a long day in the winery or vineyard, what do you do?
Happy hour in the hot tub overlooking the vineyard! (It REALLY does take a lot of beer to make wine.)
What’s the greatest part about being a winemaker?
Realistically – you get to call the shots. Winemaking is totally a reflection of your wine style and personality. Everybody may not like your particular style, but it is great affirmation when someone comes in and likes the wine you are making. The best part of making wine in Texas, is that there are so many varietal types, terroir variations, and seasonal variations that allow for many types of wine. We are all still trying to find what works best with our vineyard sites and winemaking techniques. There is no predetermined grape or blend requirements which allows the individual to be creative in their style.
What is your winemaking philosophy, that is, what are you trying to achieve with your wines?
I am a big, bold red wine lover, which means Cab and Merlot, but I am also growing Tannat, Petite Sirah, and other big reds. My style is to make varietal wines, and establishing and maintaining varietal character. I also attempt to minimize adjustments or additions to the wine, so that the vineyard and varietal character and vintage speak for themselves in the wine. I tend to be more Old World style and mostly use French oak barrels.
Anything else you would like to add?
This is a second career for me and my wife, Margaret. The challenges are huge, but being in a burgeoning grape growing and wine making environment provides unending energy, encouragement, and satisfaction. Texas is the place to be making wine right now and in the coming years.
The Flat Creek Enoteca is located in Marble Falls and is a tasting room and more for Flat Creek Estate. The Enoteca officially opened on May 20, 2014. For those of you, like me, who wondered first how to pronounce Enoteca, it is like (ee-no-tech-a). The Italian word is defined as a local tasting room and wine shop with small wine producers and serving artisan food.
The Flat Creek Enoteca is very easy to find since it is right on Highway 281 just north of the bridge heading into Marble Falls. When we first walked into the Enoteca, we were greeted and offered a complimentary sample of Flat Creek Blanco Brio 2012. This is a delightful wine with a blend of Muscat Canelli and Orange Muscat done in a semi-sweet style with slight effervescence. We were told this is standard practice for customers arriving to sample a wine they are offering.
Co-owner Rick Naber saw us and showed us around the tasting room. On one side is the tasting bar where you can place your order for a wine tasting, glass of wine, or food order. After you place your order, you can have a seat either inside at one of the many tables or outside on the patio which faces the river.
The big kitchen attraction is the large wood oven that can get to 700 degrees in cooking your food. These are just a few of the many food items which were available when we were there were:
Texan Beef sandwich
Italian sandwich
Salads
12 inch pizzas
Cheese
Margherita
Sausage and Mushroom
Smoked Chicken BBQ
Wood Fired Flat Bread
Cheese Plate
Crème brûlée
We chose a Margherita pizza and decided to do a tasting also. There are different options for tastings. One is six one ounce pours and then there are flights of three wines of three two ounce pours which include white, red, and sweet flights from which to select.
Rick Naber
While our pizza was being cooked and tastings prepared, we continued taking a tour of the tasting room. On the opposite side of the tasting room is a small room with clouds painted on the walls, along with barrels and tank. Rick said they will use the small room for private tastings. With photos on the wall, there is a self-guided tour of the winemaking process from the start in the vineyard, crush, fermentation, barrel aging, and then the final product.
Our pizza and tastings arrived so we sat down. While enjoying the food and wine, Rick introduced us to Clay who handles the last piece of the puzzle which is the Italian wines offered in a cuvee wine dispenser system. When we finished our lunch, we visited Clay at the cuvee.
The cuvee stores eight wines and uses a type of credit card which is prepaid to then dispense proper amounts of wine. Clay was very informative of the Italian wines offered which at the time of our visit were:
Vallerosa Bonci Verdicchio Manciano
La Fontursia Pecorino Crivellino
Schiavenza Dolcetto D’Alba
Ettore Germano Langhe Nebbiolo
La Fontursia Rosso Piceno
Ettore Germano Langhe Rosso Balau
La Fontursia Rosso Piceno Reserva Crivellino
There are more Italian wines offered at the tasting room and he swaps different wines in and out of the cuvee. We sampled two wines from the cuvee and it will be a good introduction of Italian wines for people wanting to taste something they may not ordinarily be able to try without buying a bottle.
Even though the tasting room had recently opened, it had already started drawing a good crowd from locals wanting a new place to enjoy wine and food for happy hour, events, and also to buy wine. The large “Communal Table” in the middle of the room can be reserved for groups of 8 to 16 guests.
Flat Creek Estate is a beautiful winery to visit, but when you want a quick glass of wine or buy a bottle, the Flat Creek Enoteca location makes it easy for customers to visit.
Fellow blogger Laurie Ware coincidentally visited Flat Creek Enoteca the same day we did, but at a different time. Please check out her Wine At Roads End blog for her experience.
We now have an annual ritual to visit the Hill Country the weekend of Memorial Day and meeting up with friends Dave and Kelli Potter of The Grapes Around Texas and future Mary Elizabeth Vineyards along with Laurie and Shelly Ware of Wine’s At Roads End on a road trip. This year we stayed at the Lazy T Bed and Breakfast like we did last year.
Unfortunately Gloria had to work again on Memorial Day but this year we were both able to take Friday off to still have a three day weekend. Gloria had the first choice as where to go so we headed first to Duchman Family Winery. I had been there recently and did a full tasting in February, so we did a tasting of what was new and what Gloria had not tried. One wine was the Tempranillo 2012 from Bayer Family Vineyards which was new since my last visit and it, of course, was very good.
The next plan was to eat lunch but Gloria decided 11:30am was too early to eat lunch so that gave us time to stop at another winery, Spicewood Vineyards. We were fortunate on the Friday that owner Ron Yates was present and he took over our tasting. We had met Ron briefly before, but the tasting allowed us to have a long conversation. Ron was very energetic about everything and we had a lot of fun doing the tasting with him.
Ron Yates
Spicewood Vineyards has 32 acres of vineyard and they are growing 13 varieties of grapes. The winery has always been a popular wedding spot and they already have 35 weddings planned this year. Spicewood Vineyards is also making around 5,500 cases of wine a year.
Ron told us about a new winery he will be opening on US Highway 290 west of Johnson City. They do not have a name for it yet but there are already two acres of Tempranillo planted there with more planned on being planted. In fact, winemaker Todd Crowell was at the new location helping with building a high fence around the vineyard. Ron showed a lot of enthusiasm about the new winery which has a hopeful opening date of summer 2015.
During the beginning of our tasting, Laurie and Shelly Ware showed up to join us in the tasting. Some of the wines we tasted were:
Chardonnay 2012 from stainless
Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (Estate)
Semillon 2012 (Estate)
Cabernet Claret 2012 (Texas 55% Tempranillo, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 5% Syrah). This is a very popular wine now for Spicewood and it pairs very good with chili.
Pinot Noir 2012 (Sonoma Coast)
Tempranillo 2012 (High Plains – Bayer Family Vineyards). Remember the Tempranillo 2012 from Duchman Family Winery was also from Bayer Family Vineyards but the two wines tasted different showing the winemaker’s touch on each wine.
Tempranillo 2012 (Estate). This had a little more oak aging than the High Plains Tempranillo.
Ron then offered to take us downstairs to the barrel room. We first encountered a Spanish wine vat still packaged which holds 300-500 gallons. Ron said they were not sure what they are going to do with it yet, but it had arrived safely.
Ron Yates and Spanish vat
We then did a couple barrel tastings of new wines not ready yet for release. The first was the 2013 version of The Good Guy. The Good Guy is a wine made in honor of Ron Yates’ grandfather, Tommy Joe Yates. The new version will have a little more Graciano in it. Another new wine tasted is a 2013 Texas blend they will be calling Frost Protection. The name and blend came from them saying, “Oh crap, let’s go find some grapes!”
We had a great time at Spicewood Vineyards and as we found with all wineries we have re-visited, everybody is getting better each year which makes sense since all are learning by experience and it is usually a yearly process.
We thanked Ron for his time spent with us and Gloria and I headed off to Flat Creek Enoteca. The Wares went in another direction to a different winery.
Saturday came and the first winery all three couples were going to meet at was Hawk’s Shadow Winery. We arrived at our appointment time of 10:00am and met Doug and Tom Reed there. Their current winery and tasting room operates out of their crush pad building while the actual tasting room gets built adjacent. The drawing of the planned building looks great and will provide a great view of the neighboring hills and vineyard.
Tom and Doug Reed
The first time I visited there were only a couple bottled wines and this time there were more for the group to enjoy. The new wines had all been bottled one to two months prior. From some questions asked by others, we all learned the name of the winery comes from a horse they used to have called Hawk’s Shadow. The two estate vineyards have an elevation between 1,000 and 1,100 feet.
Some of the wines we tasted were:
Big O 2012 (Russell Lepard Vineyard. 98% Orange Muscat made dry with some Chenin Blanc)
Texas Gal 2012 (Russell Lepard Vineyard. 92% Muscat Canelli made dry)
Luna Vieja 2012 (Russell Lepard Vineyard. 100% Chennin Blanc barrel aged in neutral French barrel for 18 months sur lie.)
Orange Muscat 2011 (Lost Draw Vineyards. 100% Orange Muscat made dry). They realized during the tasting they should have let us try this after the 2012 version for comparison.
Tres Robles 2012 (High Plains. Mostly Mourvèdre in three different kinds of oak. Seven barrels of Mourvèdre, one barrel Malbec, and one barrel Syrah. It is sulfite free.)
We then interrupted the bottle tasting for some barrel tasting and this is what we were able to try:
100% Tempranillo 2012 from Bayer Family Vineyards. Aging in Hungarian oak.
Syrah 2012 from Eperon Vineyard. Aging in Hungarian Oak.
Syrah 2012 from Drew Tallent vineyard
20% Tempranillo, 60% Syrah from Drew Tallent, and 20% Syrah from Eperon Vineyard
We returned to their first major bottled wine, the HSV 2011 estate wine made from 60% Sangiovese, and a field blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. It was aged for 26 months in new Hungarian oak. A field blend are different varieties of grapes planted in the same vineyard and co-fermented together during the winemaking process.
The visit to Hawk’s Shadow Winery was a great start to the day and we thanked Doug and Tom for their time. It was now time to make our next appointment which was Lewis Wines.
As we drove down the long road to the tasting room, there were a number of newly planted vines in a couple vineyards. When we asked later, there were 5.8 acres of vines planted at the winery including the varieties: Touriga Nacional, Tannat, Tinta Cão, Alicante Bouschet, and Arinto.
Lewis Wines
We were a little late for our appointment and co-owner Doug Lewis was in the process of finishing up a tasting from another group. He made room for us in his production area (same situation as Hawk’s Shadow Winery) and we begin a tasting.
Mourvèdre blend 2010 (55% Tempranillo from Parr Vineyards, 35% Mourvèdre from Lost Draw Vineyards, 8% Syrah from Drew Tallent, 2% Grenache from Pedernales)
Merlot 2011 (with a little bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc)
Tempranillo 2011 (Parr Vineyards)
In the middle of our tasting, co-owner Duncan McNabb came in and started helping another group who had arrived. We were all getting lucky to get a sneak preview of upcoming wines from the barrel and newly bottled. The ones we tasted were:
Tempranillo 2011 (Newsom Vineyards). This will probably be a winter release. It was bottled over 8 months ago. 15.6% alcohol and if one remembers, 2011 was a very hot summer leading to the higher alcohol.
Tempranillo 2012 (Newsom Vineyards). 13.2% alcohol and done in new oak.
Mourvèdre Rosé (Parr Vineyards). This could have been bottled a couple months ago but they decided to wait.
Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (Newsom Vineyards)
It was another great visit to Lewis Wines and our Saturday was really going well! Next up just a little bit down the road was Hye Meadow Winery.
There we first met manager Chris Black followed soon by co-owner Denise Batek. Chris started us on a tasting. There are two sets of flights for a tasting fee each. One flight is called “Hye Aspirations” which includes eight white and red wines. The other is called “All Red All The Time” which includes five wines.
The tasting room was getting a lot of traffic and the wines were tasting great as usual. It is amazing that our group of three couples were at the winery one year ago and the winery was still under construction. Now they are a hustling and bustling winery with lots of traffic, live music, and food trucks available. What a difference in such a short time!
Speaking of food, it was time for some lunch and we all enjoyed the pork barbecue which was being offered that day. We saw co-owner Mike Batek tending the back bar and after lunch went to visit with him. Denise soon came back and we met their daughter Karina.
Chris Black along with Karina, Mike, and Denise Batek
Mike, being the ever gracious friend, offered to take us to the production building and let us try some barrel samples. We brought glasses in hand and made the short walk to the building. These are some of the wines we tried:
Gewürztraminer from the tank. It was made bone dry but there is still .5 to .6 residual sugar.
The next version of Junkyard Dog. They are planning on bottling this at the end of June.
Sangiovese 2013 from the barrel made from free run juice
Dolcetto 2013 from the barrel. The barrel was French oak on the heads and Hungarian oak with the rest. The Dolcetto came from Washington while last year’s version came from New Mexico.
Aglianico 2013 (New Mexico)
Montepulciano 2013 (New Mexico)
Elixir 2013 Port. Made from Syrah. This was still new with the fortification of brandy and will be ready in about a year.
We thanked Mike for his time because we were a little late (a somewhat common theme that day) for our next appointment. Next up was a tasting at the new Reserve Tasting Room at Pedernales Cellars.
We arrived at Pedernales and met Fredric Osterberg and Julie Kuhlken in the main tasting room. They guided us to the Reserve Tasting Room where we had a great time you can read here.
After the Reserve Tasting Room, some of us partook in the other wines available in the main tasting room. Afterward, Jeremy Wilson gave us a tour of the production area at Pedernales Cellars. We learned quite a bit and if they’re lucky, they’ll be making 15,000 cases of wine this year. The luck comes because hail hit the Hill Country at the beginning of May.
Jeremy Wilson
The top part of the production area was originally 4,000 square feet and they just added another 4,000 square feet. One interesting tidbit was that winemaker David Kuhlken prefers using basket presses instead of bladder presses.
Pedernales basket press
By the way, if you haven’t read them yet, Jeremy Wilson has been doing wine reviews on this site. Hopefully he will continue and you can find his posts at this link.
The last visit of the day was going to be at Fly Gap Winery. Fly Gap Winery is owned by Brock and Melissa Estes and Brock was excited to show us the sunset from his east Mason location.
We drove through unpaved roads and eventually found the location for Fly Gap Winery. Brock Estes met us when we pulled up and he gave us a tour of the home of Fly Gap Winery. Brock is planning on doing his winery in the old style of wineries. In the back in some older buildings which are being remodeled will be a tasting room and game room. We visited the production building which is where Brock is really going old world style.
Concrete Vat
The DANK wines he currently offers are being made in other wineries, but he plans on making his wines in cement vats using concrete fermentation and then being transferred to barrels or holding tanks with the flow of gravity only. He really wants to keep the concrete vats as they are, but is pretty confident he will need to line them with epoxy just as Gloria and I have seen wineries in Mendoza do the same with their concrete tanks.
Brock Estes
After our tour we sat down at a nearby picnic table and enjoyed some wines while the sun set. Unfortunately it was cloudy so we did not see the great sunset we hoped, but we did have an enjoyable time talking and drinking wine into the dark.
On Sunday, Gloria and I had to head home while the others could continue their visits to other wineries, but we all did manage to make a visit to new winery Fat Ass Ranch & Winery which you can read about our visit here.
It had been another enjoyable Memorial Day weekend and we already are starting to think what we want to do next year.
There’s a new winery coming to Texas in Burnet called Torr Na Lochs Vineyard & Winery.
Torr Na Lochs Vineyard & Winery broke ground recently to mark the start of the construction of a $1.2 million Winery building located near Burnet, Texas on June 7, 2014. This iconic 11,000 square foot building will include a Processing room, Barrel room, Pub, Tasting room, and Patio. It will also include a tastefully finished residential space on the second floor. The whole facility will use many sustainable features like native materials found on site, solar powered well, and rainwater harvesting system.
Leading the groundbreaking was Burnet City Manager David Vaughn along with Council members Philip Thurman and Derek Fortin, owners Blake and Karen DeBerry and CEO of G2 Builders Texas, Ragu Sada.
G2 Builders Corporation is a design-build construction company based in Austin, TX. G2 Builders is working with the owners to bring their vision to reality. The winery is expected to be complete in time for a special Christmas grand opening.
There are humans on this planet that are determined to climb the highest summits of the largest mountains. Others make the decision to climb the employment ladder to reach the top in their career field. I, however, choose to climb to the “Top Of The Hill Country” and fill my glass with Alamosa Wine Cellars Texacaia 2011.
It is no secret that winemaker Jim Johnson, a graduate of UC Davis in California, is a pioneer in the Texas Hill Country. He has been producing world class Texas wines for quite some time now. I recently had the pleasure of bottling with them and the experience was nothing less than stellar. After we wiped the sweat from our brows, Karen and Jim invited me into the tasting room to sample their current portfolio. I was impressed with how big their wines were to start and I really appreciated the diversity of which Jim chooses to blend his wines.
The 2011 Texacaia is a classic example of that diversity. What do you get when you blend Texas grapes such as Sangiovese (Italy), Tannat (France), and Petite Verdot (France)? Well, you get a wonderfully bold and complex red wine. 2011 was an extreme drought year for Texas, which equated to smaller yields and concentrated fruit.
Alamosa Wine Cellars Texacaia 2011, Tio Pancho Ranch (Estate Vineyard)
62% Sangiovese, 30% Tannat, 8% Petite Verdot
Clarity/Brightness: Clear bright / no flaws
Concentration: Deep
Color: Ruby with a garnet rim variation
Viscosity: Medium
Tannins: Medium plus to high
Acidity: Medium minus to medium
Alcohol: Medium
Body: Full
Finish: Long
As I swirl the glass and shove my sniffer in the bowl, I detect black fruits such as blackberries, black cherries, and a splash of black current. There is a nuance of an old oak chest as well. The palate confirms the nose tossing black fruit all around my palate. The splendid hint of French oak resting quietly in the Cellar is prominent behind the fruit. This wine was aged for 14 months in mostly neutral French oak barrels after being co-fermented in small picking bins.
This wine is more than capable of standing up to a thick and juicy steak. The ample tannins and Arnold Schwarzenegger structure from the Tannat means that this wine can bask in your cellar for several years to come? Texacaia you ask, yes please!
Nestled between acres of lush estate vineyards near Marble Falls in the Texas Hill Country sits Flat Creek Estate. As you walk up to the tasting room, aromas of delicious food overwhelm the senses from the restaurant on site. Yummy!
Flat Creek takes pride in making authentic Texas wine, made from 100% Texas fruit. However, 2009 proved to be a very challenging year for Texas. A hard freeze and large hail ravaged the estate vineyard which wrestled away dreams of a gorgeous estate Syrah. The decision was made to purchase fruit from proven and award winning regions of California such as the Sierra Nevada Foothills and Lodi. This Flat Creek Syrah was hand crafted in Texas by a talented Texas winemaker, so don’t confuse this for a California wine even though the fruit was grown and harvested there. This wine really appeals to me because it combines the hard work and the old world style of Texas winemaking with the über ripe and bold fruit of California. At 15.5% alcohol, this is a beast of a wine!
Once out of the bottle, I tilted the glass and a very dark ruby red center with a blush rim variation stared me down. Big legs drip down the sides of the glass showing off their muscles. The nose screams, “I am Syrah,” with spices and black and white peppercorns jumping like popcorn out of the glass. I wouldn’t call this wine fruit forward on the nose, but black fruits are prominent behind notes of toasty oak, old leather, and peppercorns.
On the palate, this wine offers a unique balance of Old World and New World style. The high alcohol from extreme ripeness is absolutely New World, while the peppery and more subtle fruit characteristics really show off an Old World personality. Blackberries, boysenberries, and peppercorns sit underneath a pile of dusty tannins and a toasty oak barrel draped with old handmade cowboy boots. There is also a nuance of smoked meat over a primitive campfire. That is exactly what I picture when drinking this massive yet gentle wine. The phenolic (fruit) and wood tannins are balanced on the front and back of the palate followed by a lingering finish.
Here are the facts:
Vintage – 2009
Varietal – 100% Syrah
Barreling was 20 Months in 40% New Oak, 50% French, 30% American, 20% European
Clarity/brightness – Clear/Bright. There are no detectable flaws.
Tannins – Medium plus to high
Acidity – Medium to medium plus
Alcohol – high (This wine is fairly hot, but is well balanced for pairing with foods such as a steak or spicy marinated chicken breast)
Finish – Long. The leather and smoky warmth really linger on the back of the palate.
There is the ever going debate over Texas wine being either mostly or all Texas fruit. As much as I love 100% Texas fruit, I do support any effort to make fantastic wine even under extreme circumstances such as the 2009 vintage for Flat Creek. Texas is one of the most extreme regions in the world for viticulture, therefore I understand the need to purchase fruit from other sources when Mother Nature throws a jab to the gut. I firmly believe that this wine would not have such an Old World character had it been made in California, by a California winemaker. Great job Flat Creek!
As a state with extreme weather variation including hail, freezes, and severe drought, Texas has become known as one the most difficult winemaking regions of the world. The Lone Star State is not at all new to winemaking, but until recent years had unfortunately been known for less than stellar wines. That is simply not the case any longer. Hardship, varietal experimentation, winemaking style changes, and perseverance have led our local industry to the top of the heap in regard to world class wine.
As we have excelled to new heights in quality never before achieved in Texas winemaking, Tempranillo, Tannat, Touriga Nacional, Sangiovese, Syrah, Vermentino, Viognier, and many other grape varieties have carried us there. Why am I babbling on about Texas wine history you ask? Well, it is relative to the story of my mission to find a “mind blowing” Cabernet Sauvignon made from 100% Texas fruit. That’s right, 100% fruit grown in this hot, dry state with unrelenting sweltering heat and a growing season so short that the grapes are begging for another few months on the vine with cooler temperatures. Heck even in Spain, home of our beloved Tempranillo grape, harvest is still well into mid-September through mid-October.
As a budding sommelier in the industry, I find myself asking…what about Cabernet Sauvignon? We know this confident and hardy Bordeaux varietal thrives in climates with warm days, cool nights, and a fast draining warm soil type like the pebbles of Margaux, Bordeaux. But what about Texas?
The top growers in our state know that Cabernet fears nothing, it CAN handle the heat, it WILL ripen properly, and it CAN be coaxed into something massive yet friendly. Is it natural or easy to do? Not necessarily. Can it be done? Well, I am now truly convinced! The proof is in the pudding my friends and my palate is the judge.
What was I looking for in a “mind blowing” Texas Cabernet? Let me explain. I was looking for a structure that fully represents what this varietal is known for in its prime. In my opinion a Cabernet should be massive, yet palatable. Big gruffy tannins and a gentle acidity. Big black fruits and a hint of spice and toast from the barreling. A wine with a long finish and a flavor profile so pleasing, it leaves you wanting more and more. My mission led me to this particular wine and it has made me question everything I have ever spouted about Texas Cabernet. The Meritus is a game changer in my mind. Now, my friends, on to the wine itself!
This bottle is a superb Fall Creek release. The heavy bottle and elegant label attest to the quality of what is inside the thick glass tomb. When I initially read the label, I honestly expected a wine with a lack of acids and a tannic, yet flabby structure being strictly Hill Country sourced Cabernet. Boy, was I completely wrong and please don’t judge me as I judged the label; like I said I was looking for a real “game changer.”
What I did get was a wine that reminded me of Napa, a wine with such driving force that I was sort of taken aback. In a tilted glass, this wine is inky and nearly black. Once awoken via circular dances, she pitches aromatics of black fruits, spices, and nuances of oak. The palate completely confirms the nose with near identical tasting notes for me. The huge phenolic tannins on the front of the palate beg for a juicy steak and a loaded baked potato, but to a robust red wine aficionado like myself, the gum sucking astringency is a welcome sensation from a Texas Cab and I could drink this wine all day, any day, on its own. The flavors are so rich and intense that I mentally transport myself back to Napa standing in Odette Estate Winery sipping on 15% alcohol Cabs and Merlot from PlumpJack and CADE wineries. I am not kidding guys and gals, this bottle is the real deal and it wholly represents what can be done in Texas with a Cabernet Sauvignon with a splash of its lovely significant other, Merlot. Now to the nitty-gritty.
2010 Meritus by Fall Creek Vineyards
Alcohol 13.7% by volume
Appellation: Texas Hill Country
97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot
20 months in French and American oak barrels
Clarity/Brightness: Clear/bright with no detectable flaws
Tannins: High
Acidity: Medium
Alcohol: Medium plus
Finish: Medium plus to long
To those of you that have been searching for a “mind blowing” Texas Cab, I bring you the Meritus!
I first met Mark Watson when he was visiting Pedernales Cellars. I had the pleasure of hosting a private tasting for him in our reserve tasting room, along with a few other big names in the local wine industry. I knew right away he was a real gentleman. Genuine, honest and direct, that is how a man should be in my opinion.
I was fortunate to attend industry night at his newly opened Compass Rose Cellars tasting room on the Hill Country wine trail in Hye, TX a week or so later. A rustic building with a stunning view of the Hill Country awaited as I drove up the long and hilly driveway. Chef prepared food and a plethora of wonderful people from within the Texas wine industry were all there mingling. I jumped right in and felt at home once I had some fantastic Compass Rose wine in my glass and delicious food on my plate.
All three of the wines I tried that evening were very well made, but it was the Syrah that really stood out for me. It is the single most unique Syrah I have ever tasted. Every wine has its own character as we all know, but there are a few out there that really get us thinking. This is one of those wines. Here are my thoughts.
There is no capsule embracing the neck of the bottle, so a firm push and some precise twisting of my Chateau Laguiole corkscrew coaxes the cork from its cozy nook. The color is a dark garnet with a lighter red rim variation. A swirl and a deep inhale reveal white peppercorns, along with a melted smoky butter, raspberries, and a hint of oak on the nose. The palate verifies the nose near identically for me in regard to the red fruits and white pepper. The barreling is not as prominent on the palate as it is on the nose.
The major appeal of this wine that really sets it apart is the structure and mouthfeel. For a Texas Syrah this wine has a relatively low alcohol content as well as a silky, buttery mouthfeel. There is a sensation of the wine dripping down the sides of my mouth like legs down the sides of a glass. It is like layers of silk caressing the taste buds. A fellow wine aficionado and coworker of mine, Ellie Crabtree, describes this flavor profile and sensation as “bacon fat,” which I rather like! This wine has adequate body and is not flabby by any means, but it is supple and smooth which is a refreshing change of pace for a wine made with 100% Syrah.
The details:
2012 Syrah
Winemaker: Rob Nida
Appellation: Texas Hill Country, Mason TX, Tallent Vineyards
Barreling: 15 months in European oak, second use of the barrels
Alcohol: 12.2% by volume
Clarity/Brightness: Clear/bright with no detectable flaws
Tannins: Medium and round
Acidity: Medium
Alcohol: Medium
Finish: Medium plus
With every review I do, I seem to find another special jewel in the world of Texas wine. This is a testament to that and I do hope you head over and pay a visit to Compass Rose Cellars for a taste of this velvety and exceptional wine. The winery itself is located in Mason, TX and their Hill Country tasting room is located off the 290 wine trail in Hye, TX.
When Texas Wine Month Trail comes in October for the Texas Hill Country Wineries (THCW), there will be some changes from what wine trail veterans are used to.
First the basics:
The wine trail will be held from October 1-31
With the inclusion of more wineries, there are now 42 member wineries participating in the wine trail
Tickets are good all 31 days of the trail and redeemable at all 42 wineries one time
Tickets cost $60 per couple or $35 for a single ticket
15% discount on 3 bottle purchases at each winery
Now for the changes. Each ticket includes a full complimentary tasting at each winery (limit 4 per day). Notice there is a limit of four tastings per winery per day. The good thing is these are full tastings compared to previous wine trails with a few tastings.
Each ticket will include a Tasting Booklet to be picked up at your first winery (selected at time of ticket purchase). Each winery visited will stamp the booklet on the day you visit the winery and taste (sound like the old Texas Winery Passport Program?). Each day you can taste and get stamped at four wineries total. Ticket holders can of course visit and taste at more wineries in a day, but tastings will not be complimentary.
When I first heard of this change, I wasn’t too happy. Since we live three to four hours from the Texas Hill Country Wineries, we can spend maybe one weekend during the month visiting wineries, and a trail ticket doesn’t seem like it would be worth it to us. I had to check into it further.
I was told the average tasting fee at the 42 participating wineries is $9 a person. Visiting four wineries a day would then cost $36 a person for tastings. You have 31 days to visit 42 wineries, not just weekends. The Texas Wine Month Trail is then already saving customers money, not including the discounts on wine purchases. Okay, that makes me feel a little bit better.
The limit to four winery tastings a day with your ticket is a way for Texas Hill Country Wineries to promote responsible drinking on the trails. They hope you can take your time and enjoy each winery more this way, instead of rushing through tastings and getting to the next stop. This allows for a more intimate experience at each winery, enjoying the wines and the people. I’ll admit that we have rushed before because we wanted to get the most out of our weekend visit. But with 42 wineries now on the trail, that is just way too many wineries to visit in even a three-day weekend.
Mike Batek
I had to get more information from a winery’s viewpoint, so I asked Mike Batek from Hye Meadow Winery. He said, “I believe the major driver behind the decision is two-fold: safety and enjoyment. We as an association want people to come out and enjoy each winery they visit. Part of that is slowing down to taste the wine, have a conversation, and have an experience. I personally like to hang a bit longer if there is a view or savor a particular wine without rushing to meet a schedule. Looking at how our wineries are arranged in pockets across the Hill Country, we felt that it lent itself to this concept. In the process, it allows us to safely visit and not worry about our guests being over served by the end of the afternoon. We truly want the trail to be an experience to be enjoyed safely.”
Now this makes sense. There is no doubt visiting wineries is all about the experience, and the more you can enjoy your experience at a winery instead of rushing to taste and out the door, the more you will enjoy your time.
Besides the regular Texas Wine Month Trail, there are two tastings that will be held in October.
Texas Wine Month Kick-off Tasting
Saturday, October 4, 6-8pm
Hye Meadow Winery
Up to 10 THCW Members from the Johnson City to Fredericksburg area
$25 ticket includes 10 tastes, logo glass, and live music
$20 with Trail ticket (included for season pass holders)
250 tickets available
2 food trucks on site for people to purchase meals
Texas Wine Month Block Party Tasting
Saturday, October 25, 6-8pm
Driftwood Estate Winery
Up to 8 THCW Members from the Driftwood to Spicewood area
$25 tickets includes 10 tastes and logo glass
$20 with Trail ticket (included for season pass holders)
500 tickets available
2-3 food trucks on site for people to purchase meals
Fiesta Winery… Laid back, fun and inviting, yet serious enough for the discerning wine aficionado. There are a handful of wineries I have yet to visit and taste in the Texas Hill Country and Fiesta was one of them. A conversation about sparkling wine between Karen Sportsman Taylor “KK” and I turned into a planned trip to visit the tasting room in downtown Fredericksburg for a tasting and a review of a wine.
I have been sending guests with the sweeter palate over to Fiesta Winery for some time now. I knew enough about the tasting menu to confidently make that recommendation. Now that I have finally been to the tasting room and tasted the wines, I can better educate my guests on what to look for while there.
Of the 10 wines I tried, a few of them really stood out to me and I ended up taking home a few bottles. The wine I chose to review this time around is the “Back Porch Sittin’.” This is the one that started it all. The very wine that began as an easy drinking wine made by and for the Baxter family in their kitchen, which grew into a full on winery with multiple tasting rooms in central Texas (For more information about the Fiesta story, please read Jeff Cope’s write up on the winery).
The one style of wine I have a hard time appreciating as a sommelier are very sweet wines with high residual sugar. If I want the mouthfeel of corn syrup, I can just go make some pancakes with maple syrup. Knowing that a good majority of Fiesta’s wines are on the sweet side, I planned for the high end of sweet but ended up pleasantly surprised. Having said that, I was happy to see a dry Chenin Blanc and five dry reds including a Merlot, Malbec, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a red blend on the menu as well. Now, let’s discuss that wine, shall we?
This Cabernet is about as balanced as you could ask for in a semi-sweet wine. What makes it so integrated is not just solid winemaking, but being backed with blackberry instead of relying on just residual sugar for sweetness. This wine has a supple and elegant mouthfeel. The color is a very light ruby red with little to no rim variation. On the nose blackberries, blueberries, and raspberries dominate the senses, with subtle notes of vanilla and spice confirming this wine was in fact aged in oak. The palate confirms the nose with a slightly buttery mouthfeel as well, which is quite pleasing. I consider this wine semi-sweet to sweet but nowhere near corn syrup territory. The retained acidity is soft yet very present, my mouth waters with every sip, hence my medium plus rating. The finish is also quite long. The structure is light and the wine caresses the entire palate as it flows rearward toward the inevitable descent down the hatch. Yum!
Fiesta Winery Back Porch Sittin’ – non vintage
Alcohol 10.0% by volume
Clarity/Brightness: Clear/bright with no detectable flaws
Tannins: Low
Acidity: Medium Plus
Alcohol: Low
Finish: Medium plus
If you are looking for an easy going wine with unique character and 750ml of class, the Back Porch Sittin’ from Fiesta Winery may be just what you need!
Epic Helicopters has launched its VIP Wine Tours, which will whisk guests from across North Texas for a wine tasting and tour like no other. The exciting new VIP wine tours features six Texas wineries and will accommodate as many as 4 wine enthusiasts per flight. Helicopter pickup locations are customizable as are the number of vineyards visited on this high-flying winery adventure.
“Wine connoisseurs want adventurous options to explore Texas wineries and Epic is now offering that option through an exclusive VIP-type experience,” said Epic Helicopters’ President Brian Dunaway. “Epic’s helicopter fly-in winery tours make for an amazing, one-of-a-kind couples get-away, a daytrip for the gals or an anniversary experience of a lifetime.”
After arriving by private helicopter to the winery of choice, guests will enjoy tasting some of the best wines in Texas, indulge in savory foods and snacks, and take a guided winery tour. The all-inclusive price includes a tasting, snack or lunch, and vineyard tour. Guests may purchase wine and take it home on the helicopter. For the flight home, Epic Helicopters provides spill-proof wine glasses so guests can taste their purchases if they wish.
“This is a rare pairing for wine lovers and aviation buffs, the likes of which have not been offered here before,” said Lost Oak General Manager Roxanne Myers. “While at Lost Oak, enjoy a wine tour, wine tasting, and our beautiful facility and then hop aboard and enjoy the exclusive flight home.”
These are the wineries available on the helicopter wine tour.
Lost Oak Winery
Lost Oak Winery has fast become known for its Merlot, Viognier and Tempranillo wines since opening its tasting room in 2007. Owner, vintner, and retired microbiologist Gene Estes carefully tends their award winning wines.
Arrive in style at this Burleson winery, landing in between the wine tasting room and the grapes still on the vine. Once there, take a guided tour followed by a wine tasting of five wines of your choice ranging from a white Sweet Moscato to a bold red like a Tempranillo. Add to your experience with a picnic where you can enjoy antipasto, salami, cheeses, fruits, and more.
Pedernales Cellars & Becker Vineyards
Just minutes apart by helicopter, visit two great wineries while in the Hill Country and take in the scenic views of the Texas Hill Country and the winding Colorado River.
Pedernales Cellars is Texas’ leading producer of authentic, handcrafted wines, specializing in Spanish style wines. Its award-winning Texas Tempranillo and Viognier are benchmarks for these grape varietals in the state. Visitors can tour the underground winemaking cellar, then relax with a glass of wine on the tree-covered deck surrounded by breathtaking Texas Hill Country views.
Becker Vineyards is a 100,000-case per year producer of fine Texas wines, which have been served in the stateliest settings including the White House.
Best of all, when you find that special wine, pick up a case and Epic Helicopters will load it onboard so you can enjoy these fine wines at home.
Flat Creek Estates
This breathtaking helicopter tour will take you across much of the Texas Hill Country in what is truly a spectacular view of our state. Flat Creek Estates offers pristine views above the Colorado River and a marvelous Tuscan-style lunch or dinner. For more than a decade this family owned winery has been pairing fine foods and wine, offering upscale meals and wine tastings.
This grand estate offers overnight bed and breakfast accommodations (at an additional charge) where the privacy and ambiance of the vineyard is exclusively yours for the night. Each trip to Flat Creek is one of a kind and is customizable based on the day of the week and desired experience.
Flat Creek is growing Sangiovese, Primitivo, Tinta Madeira, Pinot Grigio, and Muscat Canelli and also offers other award-winning selections.
Brennan Vineyards
This West Texas vineyard produces sophisticated wines with Texas roots; award winning varietals such as Cabernet, Syrah, Viognier, and Nero D’ Avola. Tastings at Brennan Vineyards take place at the McCrary House Tasting Room with locally grown cheeses, nuts and other tasty treats. The McCrary House is one of the oldest remaining homesteads in Texas, a landmark designated by the Texas Historical Commission.
Afterward, take a tour of the state-of-the-art winery before being whisked off by helicopter, where you will once again be able to take in the spectacular views of this West Texas winery.
Cross Timbers Winery
This first class wine tour begins as you take flight aboard one of our sporty Robinson 66 helicopters, arriving at Grapevine’s own Cross Timbers Winery. Built in 1875, the historic Brock home was been restored to its 19th century charm and now serves as a winery and destination special event venue. Enjoy your wine inside the historic home or while sitting on the front porch, the patio or the crush pad.
You can choose from among the award winning Cross Timbers wine, other select Texas wines, some international favorites, or wines from our sister city in Parras, Mexico – Casa Madero.
Based at Fort Worth Meacham Airport, Epic Helicopters is a full service commercial helicopter operator providing services such as metroplex helicopter tours, passenger/cargo transportation, aerial photo/video, pipeline/power line patrol, helicopter maintenance, flight instruction, and wildlife management. Epic Helicopters is a member of the National Business Aviation Association (NBAA), Helicopter Association International (HAI), and is also a Robinson Helicopter Company factory authorized service center. For more information, please visit www.EpicHelicopters.com
Hill Country breezes, ample sunshine, and intoxicating aromas of fresh lavender awaken the senses when you pull up to Becker Vineyards. The winery sits on a beautiful plot of land just a hop, skip, and a jump from Highway 290. As one of the oldest wineries on the 290 wine trail in the Texas Hill Country, Becker Vineyards has been producing a wide array of wines for some time.
Founded in 1992 by Dr. Richard Becker and his wife, Bunny Becker, the winery now produces over 100,000 cases of wine annually from grapes grown in their ~75 acres of vines along with grapes sourced from other vineyards in Texas and harvested from vineyards in other parts of the United States. An interesting fact is that Becker has only planted vitis vinifera grape varietals. No hybrids like Blanc du Bois or Black Spanish are growing in their vineyards. You are likely to find a large selection of wines from their portfolio in grocery stores and wine shops across the state. Distribution is a large part of their business model, which is unlike many of the other wineries in Texas where the wines are only available for purchase at the actual winery.
When choosing a wine to review from a Texas winery, I usually opt for something (usually a red) that truly represents the winery itself, a wine that highlights the style of the winemaker and shows a sense of place. With Becker, I chose the Reserve Merlot 2012 vintage. Merlot seems to be one of the few Bordeaux varietals that consistently does well in the extreme Texas climate. It is rare for me to find a Merlot that is flabby or poorly made which is promising for Texas wineries and winemakers alike.
With the Portuguese cork yanked from its nook, the bouquet already begins to come alive. To the eyes, striking colors of garnet with an orange hue overtake the glass. The aromatics once gently swirled are potent and prompt images of fresh vanilla, crispy toast, candied cherries, raspberries, and some fig. There are also prominent notes of saddle leather and cigar box. The oak is very prominent, more so on the nose than as perceived on the palate. The palate confirms the nose with the addition of plums and even more of that pleasant wooden box.
Below are the specifications for the Becker Vineyards Reserve Merlot, 2012 vintage:
Appellation: Texas
Barrels: A combination of the best French and American oak were utilized for this wine
Clarity/Brightness: Clear/bright with no detectable flaws and no gas or sediment
Tannins: Medium
Acidity: Medium Plus
Alcohol: Medium
Finish: Long
Alcohol: 14.6%
Harvest Date: August 20 – September 9, 2012
Harvest Brix: 24.5 – 26.0
Bronze – 2013 San Francisco International Wine Competition
This is a well-made wine that will please the novices and aficionados alike. It is easy drinking and is priced very well. I was surprised to see that this Reserve wine is available in distribution and is priced around $13.00 per bottle; that is a bargain my friends. Having said that, I think it is priced accordingly to what you get in the bottle. Next time you’re touring the 290 wine trail, stop by Becker Vineyards for a nice Merlot while sitting on the covered patio taking in the fresh Hill Country air.
What did you do before becoming a winemaker (if anything)?
For those of us familiar with the Tannat varietal, our minds immediately race to the foothills of the Pyrenees (Mountains in southwest France) and our gums naturally retract to the back of our head in preparation of the tannic bombardment to ensue. Well, fast forward to modern times and travel across the pond to the state of Texas. Here, a few dedicated winemakers have embarked on a mission to tame the noble armor skinned grape and construct palate friendly, inviting Texas Tannat wine. This evening I had the pleasure of savoring such a jewel.
As a budding sommelier in the industry, I find myself asking…what about Cabernet Sauvignon? We know this confident and hardy Bordeaux varietal thrives in climates with warm days, cool nights, and a fast draining warm soil type like the pebbles of Margaux, Bordeaux. But what about Texas?
I first met Mark Watson when he was visiting Pedernales Cellars. I had the pleasure of hosting a private tasting for him in our reserve tasting room, along with a few other big names in the local wine industry. I knew right away he was a real gentleman. Genuine, honest and direct, that is how a man should be in my opinion.
